Lama dahhhh...

Bosannya la... Pernah tak kita dinilai hingga menyebabkan kita terasa sangat kecil... Ini yang terjadi... Aku tau mungkin aku tak sehebat mereka.. Tp sekurang-kurangnya aku ada jugak melakukan sesuatu untuk mereka... Aku tau mungkin komitmen aku tak 100% tp kena la tengok jugak.. Mana ngan komitmen aku sambung belajar lg... Ngan keluarga lagi... Kalau aku masih bujang aku dapat la nak bagi 101% komitmen tuk mereka.. Kalau rumah aku dalam satu kawasan boleh la.. Takkan aku nak tinggai keluarga ngan study aku tuk semua nih.. Takkan aku nak cicir semua semata-mata nak tumpu ke satu benda ja... Cakap memang senang... Cuba la buat tangok... Tekanan memang dah memuncak dah nih... Usaha dah... Segala benda aku nak suapkan jugak ka.. Kalau aku tak ada anak atau isteri boleh la nak menetap kat sini 24jam.. Tolong la paham.. Jangan la nak mengejar kejayaan dengan mengerah tenaga kecil ini...

How To Maintain Your Mountain Bike For Peak Performance

1.

Step 1: You will need

· 1 bike-mounted toolbag · 1 tyre lever set · 2 replacement inner tubes · 1 puncture kit · 1 chain splitter · few spare chain links · 1 folding Allen wrench and screwdriver set · 1 spoke adjuster · 1 shock pump · 1 spray bike lubricant · 1 bucket of warm soapy water · 1 combination bike brush · 1 wet rag · 1 dry cloth

Step 2: Turn bike upside-down

Firstly, take all the accessories, like your pump, lights and toolkit, off your bike.

2. If your bike has V brakes, now release the brake cables. Starting with the front brake, push the two brake calipers into the rim of the wheel to release the tension from the cable. Then lift the brake cable up out of the retaining clip and repeat with the rear brake cable.

3. Now, to protect your grips and saddle, lay out an old towel or something similar on the ground.

4. Standing beside your bike, lean over it and grip the frame with your hands - one hand on the down tube at the front and the other hand on the seat post at the rear of the frame, then lift up the bike and turn it over. It's easy to turn your bike over in one go like this.

5. Next, open the quick release lever on the front wheel axle and lift the wheel out. Then remove the rear wheel - open the quick release and, as you lift up the wheel, ease the rear cassette housing out of the derailleur mechanism (the part with the two cogs).

6. Step 3: Clean drive system

Using the brush and some soapy water, start by cleaning the rear derailleur, working the brush into all the moving parts.

7. Turn the pedals to move the chain round and, holding a wet soapy rag around the chain on the rear deraillear, give it a good wash down.

8. Now use the brush with plenty of water to clean the chain ring (the front cog where the pedals attach). Then give it a wipe down with a dry cloth.

9. Taking a wet rag, now wash the pedals and then wash the cranks (the bars that hold the pedals on).

10. Finallly, clean the front gear mechanism, working the rag into all the moving parts to clean them thoroughly.

11. Step 4: Wash underside of bike

Start by washing the front forks with a rag and soapy water, wiping them dry with a cloth as you go. Then, in the same way, clean the centre and rear of the frame.

12. Useful tip: pressure washers are great for removing grime but don't use the ones in service stations as they often add detergents to the water which will damage your bike.

13. Next, wash the handlebars with a soapy rag, paying particular attention to the brake lever and gear assembly.

14. Then, using a damp rag, wash the toptube or crossbar, making sure to clean under the brake and gear cables that run down its length.

15. And finally, clean the underside of the saddle.

16. Step 5: Wash and remount wheels

Take a wet rag and start by cleaning the rims of the front wheel. Then give the spokes a wash down and clean the axle.

17. If you have a disk brake system, use the brush to clean the brake disk rotor with soapy water.

18. Now, drop the front wheel back into the forks and tighten the quick release - not too tight, not too loose.

19. TIP: When you have tightened the lever to the correct pressure, the quick release will leave a mark on your palm for a few seconds.

20. If you need to adjust the tension of the quick release, turn the nut on the far side of the axle clockwise to tighten it, or anticlockwise for less tension.

21. Now, take the rear wheel and clean the rims, spokes, axle and rear disk rotor if you have one as you did with the front wheel.

22. Clean the gear cassette on the rear wheel carefully using the bike brush - use the lever end to remove any stones between the teeth, then work the brush into the cogs, using plenty of soapy water, to remove any build up of lubricant or dirt.

23. Drop the rear wheel back into the frame, easing the gear cassette back into the derailleur assembly, then tighten the quick release.

24. Step 6: Check wheels

Spin each wheel, making sure it turns freely and that you can see it's straight.

25. As the wheel rotates, hold your fingers against the rims, to feel if there are any dents or knocks on either side.

26. If you have disc brakes, also check both sides of the rotors on each wheel for true, by holding your fingers against the rotor while it spins, making sure it feels smooth and straight.

27. If you have V brakes watch the wheel while it's spinning, to make sure that the brake blocks do not make contact with the rims.

28. To fix any problems with your wheels, you need specialist equipment, so visit your local bike shop for professional maintenance.

29. Now check the spokes by turning the front wheel slowly and letting you hand fall over each spoke as the wheel rotates. Every spoke should feel taught, but if one feels sloppy it will need tightening.

30. While the bike is still upside down, check the tyre pressure and that both tyres are in good condition like this one. If you find any major damage, replace the tyre before your next ride.

31. For more instructions on any of these, watch Videojug's other bike films.

32. Step 7: Check drive system

Firstly check both pedals by spinning them, making sure that they turn freely and that there's no noise or grinding from worn bearings. If there is, you'll need to replace the pedal unit.

33. Next, turning a pedal to rotate the crank, listen out for any noise or signs of wear from the bottom bracket (the assembly that holds the cranks and chain ring in place). If you find any, it will need further maintenance.

34. Now, check the front gear mechanism turn the pedal and move the chain up and down the gears using the gear lever. You're looking and listening for signs of snagging which happen when the mechanism is misaligned and needs adjusting. Now, do a similar check with the rear derailleur and gear cogs.

35. WARNING: If you ride your bike with a misalinged gear mechanism or derailleur, the chain can easily jump off the cogs.

36. Step 8: Wash topside of bike

Now stand by your bike and grab the frame with both hands as you did before to turn your bike back up the right way, then lean the bike against a wall.

37. Using a clean rag and soapy water, wash the handlebars and the headset (the part where the handlebars meet the frame). Take care to clean well around the brake and gear levers. Then wash the tops of the forks on the front wheel and, if you have front shocks, give the seals a good wipe down.

38. Moving to the centre of the bike, clean the downtube and the top tube or crossbar.

39. Now, open the quick release to remove the saddle. Wash the saddle tube and the seat post on the frame, then remount the saddle, tighten the quick release and give the saddle a wipe over.

40. Finally, clean the seat stays (the two tubes that join the seat post to the rear axle) and wash around the bottom bracket.

41. Step 9: Check brakes

Test your brakes by standing in front your bike holding the handlebars. Apply the front brake and pull the bike towards you. The front wheel should not move at all and if you continue to pull, the rear wheel should lift up off of the ground, otherwise, the brake will need adjusting.

42. Now, do the same test with the back brake. When the brake is applied, the rear wheel shouldn't turn round and if you keep pulling, it should skid. If not, the rear brake will need adjusting.

43. Also, look at the brake levers - the brakes should start to grip at about 1/3 pull. The levers should not touch the handlebars. If they do, your brakes need adjusting.

44. If you have disc brakes, check they are in good condition by standing in front of the bike and looking down inside the disk brake caliper (the bit that fits around the brake rotor). Apply the front brake and you should see both brake pads move across equally to clamp the rotor. If they don't, this indicates a problem. Repeat the above test with the rear disk brake, standing where you can see down into the rear caliper.

45. If you have V brakes check the brake blocks for signs of wear. They should be free of graphite build-up, and the grooves in the pad should be deep, otherwise they'll need replacing.

46. WARNING: never let you brake pads wear down to the point where they scrape the rims.

47. With V brakes, also check both brake cables for signs of wear or fraying. Start at the brake levers on the handlebars. Follow the cables along the top tube, then check the other end of both cables where they meet the brake calipers. If you find any signs of wear or fraying in your brake cables, they will need replacing.

48. Step 10: Check headset

Stand beside your bike, and holding the headset with your left hand, apply the front brake with your right hand and rock the bike back and forth. Make sure you cannot feel any slack or hear any knocking in the headset - if you can, your headset will need adjusting.

49. Step 11: Lubricate drive system

First place some rag over the rear wheel rims underneath the derailleur to catch any oil drips.

50. Then, rotate the pedal anticlockwise to move the chain around. Holding the spray lubricant vertically, spray the chain for a few seconds as it passes over the rear gear cogs.

51. Next, moving the chain with the pedal, spray the teeth on the inside of the chain ring near the cranks. Rotate the pedal again and finally, lube the outside of the chain ring in the same way.

52. Step 12: Check lights

Now reattach yor lights and any other accessories you took off. Turn the front light on, making sure the light is bright, then do the same check with the back light. Don't ride with dim lights - replace the batteries if necessary.

gear shifting problems

Gear Shifting Problems

Bent derailleur hanger – this is a common problem where transportation, a fall or a knock on your derailleur can cause your derailleur hanger to become bent. All of a sudden some of the gears will not be working properly. Best solution is to replace the hanger, they are designed as replaceable parts, bending it straight is a temporary solution and will not solve the shifting problems.

Worn chain and or cassette – mis-shifts under pedalling tension when pedalling hard or when the drivetrain is dirty are typical symptoms. Check the chain length and condition of the cassette teeth, if either of these are worn they can affect shifting. Ideally the two should be in sync from a wear point of view, so often replacing both is the best option if either is badly worn.

Dirty, rusty or old cables – this is also a common problem, symptoms are lazy shifts where the chain shifts slowly either up or down. It is noticeable when the shifter is hard to operate and when there is a noticeable delay in shifting after clicking the shifter. If in doubt replace the cables, more often than not it will make a difference and make your bike feel much better.

Low cable tension – Symptoms are a lazy first shift or an incomplete last shift. This is easy to detect, when the cable is all the way out (in the high position) with no tension and it is loose and touching the frame, then there is a lack of cable tension. Just tighten the barrel adjuster (turn out or anticlockwise) to take up the cable slack and the problem should be solved.

Ghost shifting - This happens on full suspension bikes where the last section of cable between the frame and the derailleur is too short. As the suspension moves, usually at full compression, the cable is tensioned and initiates a shift. Other problems related to changing chain tension on some full suspension bikes can also affect shifting. So just bear these in mind if you encounter unexplained shifting problems. Sometimes setting up gears of a full suspension bike on a work stand may not be the same as setup on a bike under load.

betapa lajunya kayuhan dia......... ada berani kerrrr

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